Photography by Jake Witkin
At what point does it become too much to continuously use a late person’s famous name to move product? In the watch space, there are a handful of people who are no longer with us that most enthusiasts can rattle off at the drop of a hat: Hans Wilsdorf, Abraham-Louis Breguet, and of course, Gerald Genta. Wilsdorf’s legacy continues today with Rolex and Tudor while Montres Breguet carries on the torch for its founder. The memory of the prolific Gerald Genta is, in my opinion, stretched a little thinner; not only is his name persistently brought up when discussing his greatest hits (Royal Oak, Nautilus, Bulgari-Bulgari, Cartier Pasha, IWC Ingenieur SL, and so on) but he’s also left behind eponymous companies including Gerald Genta and Gerald Charles (Charles was, in case you weren’t aware, the late designer’s middle name). Plus, let’s not forget all the once-forgotten Genta design revivals and Genta-inspired integrated bracelet models that have flooded the market in recent years. All this is to say that Genta’s memory looms large over the current watch market. This brings us to the new Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon watch that we recently went hands-on with, which as I’m sure you’ve already deduced is the brand’s latest piece to “honor its founder.”
Genta designed the Maestro case in 2005; true to form, the case is an amalgamation of two shapes — a rectangle and his favorite silhouette, the octagon — and finished with a curvy “smile” at the bottom. On the Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon, the case is fashioned from stainless steel and measures 39mm wide, 41.70mm in length, and 9mm thick. As seen here on my colleague Jake’s 6.6″ wrist, the watch wears very flat, which is comfortable but these particular proportions may feel oversized for some wearers. The lugs are short and curve somewhat like claws going in for a grip. The case, water resistant to 100 meters, is entirely polished while the screw-down winding crown is decorated with the Clou de Paris pattern. The finishing of the case is top-notch.
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The distinct curvature on the bottom of the case is further accentuated by the blue titanium with advanced galvanic treatment that follows the case silhouette. In addition to adding a splash of color, the coating also amps up durability and resistance. Along with the case and bezel, there’s a polished edge under the crystal, totaling three frames around the dial.
Speaking of the dial, as important as the case is to Gerald Charles’ overall design language, what takes center stage here is the dramatic face of the watch. At first glance, the textured surface reminded me of a lion’s mane billowing in the wind. The pattern was achieved by hand-hammering an 18k rose gold plate, a process so involved that the company can only produce two watches per month. As is the nature with all things handmade, no two dial plates will be identical. When in hand, the dial is mostly coppery in color, shimmering both pink and yellowish depending on lighting. The work is undeniably beautiful.
Sitting on top of the wavy extravaganza are three Roman numerals positioned at 3, 9, and 12, all outlined in the same blue shade as the bezel. The pair of hands at the center gets the same blue frame treatment, and the hands and indices are coated with white Super-LumiNova that glows blue in the dark. The hands are a little small in person; while they’re not illegibly little, they seem to be overwhelmed by the rest of the imposing dial details.
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Shimmying over to 6 o’clock, we see a 60-second flying tourbillon encased in a skeletonized titanium cage in the shape of the GC logo. There’s also a yellow-gold bridge and a blue indicator that serves as a small seconds indicator. Visually, there’s a lot to take in here; between the rippled background, blue and lumed hands, a sprinkling of Roman numerals, the mix of metals, and of course, the whirling mechanism, it’s a cornucopia of details. As funny as this may sound, I feel as though there’s something missing — is it too finished that it looks somewhat unfinished? Or is it the combination of the sporty baton hands with the lavish hand-hammered gold background that’s not fully computing in my mind?
The back of the watch is yet another exercise in maximalism. What we have here is the Caliber GCA 3024/12 automatic movement (based on Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier SEED VMF 3024) with 50 hours of power reserve and a ticking rate of 28,800 beats per hour. What we see here is the 22k rose gold honeycomb rotor and a mix of traditional decorative finishes such as sailing, perlage, radial Cotes de Genève, and chamfering. According to the brand, the special vertical Côtes de Genève pattern is “inspired by tailoring, thanks to Mr. Genta’s Italian heritage.” There are also yellow gold engravings and gears, not to mention the smattering of crimson jewels punctuating the movement.
The Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon watch is paired with a matte blue hand-stitched alligator strap, furnished with a brushed steel, GC-engraved folding clasp. Although the blue strap matches the rest of the watch well, it was, unfortunately, quite stiff and uncomfortable. However, the white rubber strap, which inevitably dresses down the dramatic piece, is superbly comfortable.
It’s clear that Gerald Charles took a great deal of care to execute all the details of the Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon watch. The hammered dial is a gorgeous example of what extraordinarily talented artisans can do with their tools. The finishing of the movement and case are what you’d expect from a high-end watchmaker. The case silhouette is appealing and the proportions are thoughtful. Yet, I’m not persuaded that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
As we wrap up, I’ll go back to my initial question: Is the Genta Glut too much? I’m a fan of most (not all) of Genta’s work, but I think his name, legacy, and design language are verging on being overused. Obviously, it’s not his fault he had such an impact on wristwatches and what we collectively think is “good design;” however, perhaps those brands that have a connection to him, regardless of how legit, need not rely so heavily on his past work and memory to sell their present pieces. Or maybe I’m completely wrong as evidenced by the smile he left behind on one of his cases. The Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon watch is priced at 82,400 Swiss Francs and limited to 50 pieces. For more information, please visit the Gerald Charles website.
